I am exhausted to the bone. Normally, at this time of year, I get excited about seed starting. I take stock of my seed supplies, order seeds I’m missing, and start planning out my garden. This year, I’ve yet to do any of that. I’m too overwhelmed and tired, so I’ve decided to forego starting seeds indoors. Instead, I’m planning on buying seedlings. It wasn’t a decision I made lightly. But I just couldn’t burden myself with yet another task. I’ll still be gardening this year, just a little differently. I’ll stick to quick-growing crops for the most part, and I’ll be grabbing seedlings from my local nursery—here’s hoping they offer contactless delivery this spring!

I figured some people might be in the same boat as me. Tired. Unmotivated. There are also plenty of gardeners who don’t have room or time to start seedlings indoors. Buying seedlings is totally fine! Unfortunately, it can get expensive if you don’t plan correctly. Here are a few tips to getting the most out of your money when shopping for seedlings.

Shopping for Seedlings on a Budget

Here’s how to get the biggest bang for your buck when buying seedlings for your garden this year.

• Set a budget. It’s really easy to go overboard when shopping for plants in the spring. The nursery is full of beautiful lush plants, and the temptation can be overwhelming. Have a budget in mind before you head out and be strict with keeping to it. You can always go back and get more plants if you need to!
• Make a plan. Don’t go to your local nursery without a plan. Sketch out your garden and figure out what you plan to put where. Are you growing square-foot-style? Know how many varieties of each plant you need per square.
• Stick to slow-growing plants. Unless you have the budget, stick to buying slow-growing plants like tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers. Lettuce and other greens are easy to grow from seed, so don’t bother wasting money on those.
• Cap the number of new-to-you plants. Don’t blow your budget on exotic plants or varieties you’ve never grown before. Buy one or two new options but overall, stick to tried-and-true stuff.
• Avoid large plants. You’ll pay a premium for very large plants, but you don’t need to start with a giant tomato plant to get a decent crop. The advantage to buying an oversized plant is that you can harvest earlier, but that privilege will cost you.
• Prepare in advance. Prep your garden before you head out to the nursery. Have everything ready so you can bring your plants home and transplant them straight away. Amend your beds with compost, get some mulch ready, and make sure the soil is moist. If it’s still early in the spring, prepare space for your new plants inside your home.

Don’t forget that you can also find seedlings for a steal around your neighborhood. Check Facebook Marketplace listings for gardeners who are selling (or giving away!) their extra seedlings. Ask gardener friends to share their extra seedlings with you. Inquire with local gardening clubs to find out if they have any upcoming seed swaps or seedling sales.

Or alternatively if you need to raise some extra money to buy seeds, you have lots of options. Seeds cost less than $10, so you can always sell some of your old stuff on Facebook Marketplace, Offer up Craigslist. Old toys, comic books stored in bins or tools you arent using usually do pretty well.

I’m a huge fan of ebooks. I’m so into them that I actually have TWO e-readers! One for my library books and another for advanced reader copies (ARCs). Many people out there are willing to share their gardening knowledge. These free gardening ebooks are an excellent choice for frugal gardeners, people new to gardening, and even just people who want a bit of inspiration before they get their hands dirty.

Most of these books are available for free with a Kindle Unlimited subscription. A few of them are free without one. And a few books aren’t free but still under $5!

Read on for a brief description of each book and what you can hope to learn from reading it.

Free Gardening Ebooks

Garden Potpourri: Gardening Tips from the Easy-Growing Gardening Series

This under $5 ebook includes a collection of tips to suit both advanced and beginner gardeners. If you’re sad about the gardening season ending, this might be a nice way to remind yourself that a new season is on its way.

Urban Homesteading: The Ultimate Homestead Guide to Becoming a City Homesteader

This title is available for free with a Kindle Unlimited membership. If you’ve always dreamed of having your own homestead in the city, this is a good place to start.

Greenhouse Gardening: The Ultimate Step-by-Step Gardener’s Manual for Beginners

This Kindle Unlimited ebook is all about how to get started with growing fruit and veg inside a greenhouse. You’ll get tips on how to plan your greenhouse and even how to make money growing inside your new structure.

Keyhole Gardening: An Introduction to Growing Vegetables In A Keyhole Garden

Learn about this no-dig gardening method that’s perfect for small spaces. This is a great gardening method for frugal gardeners who don’t want to spend a ton of resources on growing plants.

Growing Food In Winter: An Introduction To Growing Food Crops Out Of Season

Anyone who knows me knows that I’m a huge nerd for winter gardening. When you live somewhere with a short growing season, it’s nice to know that there are possibilities for growing beyond the summertime. This gardening ebook covers a host of subjects, including winter crops, hot bed gardening, and planting times.

Container Gardening Month by Month: A Monthly Listing of Tips and Ideas for Creating a Professional Container Garden

One of the most challenging aspects of gardening is knowing what to do when. Keeping track of what needs to get done can be overwhelming—especially if you’re new to gardening. This ebook gives you monthly checklists so you can keep on task and focus on taking care of your plants.

Container Gardening for Beginners: A Guide to Growing Your Own Vegetables, Fruits, Herbs, and Edible Flowers

I love growing in containers! Pots are easy to move around, and plants are a lot more manageable when kept in containers. This book is a great choice if you’re new to growing in containers and need a bit of wisdom to get you going.

Winter weather is right around the corner. But if you’re anything like me, your garden is still bursting with produce. At the tail end of the season, gardeners can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the amount of produce they have on their hands. Here’s what to do with your harvest.

What to do with your harvest

Before the cold weather sets in, it’s a good idea to get almost everything out of the ground and into your house. But what are you supposed to do with your harvest once you’ve picked it?

Here’s how to handle different veggies:

Kale

While kale can survive in cold weather (and actually gets sweeter after frost exposure), you might not want to leave your entire kale harvest outside, especially when hungry critters are desperate for sustenance during the winter months.

I like to leave one or two plants (or more depending on how many I initially planted) to overwinter and go to seed. The rest, I’ll harvest and bring inside.

Of course, the best way to make use of your harvest is to share with others. But if you still have some leftover, freezing is the next best thing. You can freeze kale without blanching, which is my preferred way to do it—I’m a lazy gardener, what can I say! Unblanched, frozen kale will last several weeks in the freezer. If you want to keep it longer, blanch it first.

And don’t forget to keep some aside for dinner 😉

My favorite recipe for using up kale is one my grandmother used to make often. It’s still one of my fave comfort foods. Here’s a recipe for Caldo Verde, a Portuguese soup that includes greens, potatoes, and chorizo. If you’re vegetarian, leave out the chorizo and add beans.

Carrots

Did you know you can leave carrots in the ground through the winter? The soil acts as a mini-refrigerator and keeps them fresh. But if you live somewhere with frigid winters (like me), you’re probably better off harvesting them since a hard freeze makes it tough to pull out these tasty root veggies.

Carrots keep for a while if properly stored in the fridge, so I don’t usually bother freezing them—though, you can if you blanch them. Just make sure to remove the green tops since these wilt and spoil much faster than the root portion.

Onions

Properly cured onions will last all winter long in storage. Just make sure you have a cool dark place to put them in.

Salad greens

Some lettuces can be left alone to deal with winter weather. With a little bit of protection, you can keep harvesting from your lettuce plants for a while. Delicate, summer lettuces and greens need to be removed before a hard freeze, though.

The key to keeping lettuce longer in the fridge is to store it unwashed in a plastic bag with a teaspoon of water to maintain humid conditions.

But I don’t follow the rules. I prefer to prep my lettuce before storing it. I’ll wash, dry, and cut it, so it’s ready to go when I’m preparing dinner. If it’s already ready for me to use, I’m much less inclined to let it go to waste or put off using it until another day.

How do you store your harvest? Do you keep a winter garden and harvest things outdoors year-round? Tell me about it in the comments!

It’s fall ya’ll! My favorite season! Unfortunately, it’s been a lot warmer than years past thus far. And while that may be good news for those wanting to extend the gardening season, it’s bad news for fall decor.

Whether you put out pumpkins to celebrate fall or Halloween, they’re a fun way to accessorize the front stoop. I think I’ve put out a pumpkin every year of my life, except for last year when Halloween was virtually canceled where I live.

Sadly, the unusually warm weather means that pumpkins are rotting faster than ever. So besides putting it out at the last minute, what are some tips for making your pumpkin last longer?

Making your pumpkin last longer

It’s time to carve, paint, and otherwise decorate pumpkins! But if you want to decorate this season, you’ll have to battle both warm weather and hungry squirrels.

Here are some tips for keeping that pumpkin around until November 1st:

Pick the right pumpkin.

Choose a pumpkin that’s free of holes, scrapes, cuts, dents, or odd dark spots. Blemishes will cause your pumpkin to rot quickly.

If you have the option, pick your own pumpkin! (This is also way more fun than grabbing one from the grocery store). Since it’ll be going from the field straight to your home, it won’t get bounced around like pumpkins that travel long distances.

Stop touching it.

The more you touch a pumpkin, the higher the chances are that you’ll knick or scratch it in some way. The more cuts and scratches a pumpkin has, the faster it’ll rot into oblivion.

That means carving also speeds up the rotting process. If you’re having trouble keeping pumpkins looking good-as-new, consider painting this squash-family fruit instead of cutting into it.

Put it in the right spot.

Plop a pumpkin in a moist patch of dirt, and you’ll end up with a soggy, mushy mess in no time. The ideal spot for a pumpkin is dry and out of direct sunlight—a covered porch, for example.

Dry it out.

To make sure the kiddies get to admire your pumpkin carving skills at Halloween, make sure to thoroughly clean out the insides of a pumpkin and then dry it out before slicing and dicing. Less goopy, moist parts mean fewer opportunities for mold to grow.

Grab the vaseline.

Rubbing a dried, carved pumpkin with vaseline helps seal the surfaces and prevent mold growth.

Bottom line

Your pumpkin will rot eventually. And while some of these things can slow the process, others are out of your control (like outdoor temps and humidity). Consider taking it in every night if you really want to protect that pumpkin—especially from squirrels and other nibblers.

Another way to deter hungry pests is to keep the pumpkin off the ground. Use a small table or another elevated surface to keep it out of reach. It’s not a foolproof protection method, but it’s better than nothing!

I’m very forgiving when it comes to weeds. But because I use the square foot gardening method and garden in raised beds, I rarely have to deal with many invading plants.  Still, there are some spots in my garden when I need to keep weeds out. Since landscaping fabric is pricey, I stick to these cheap weed barrier alternatives instead.

Cheap Weed Barrier Alternatives

Here are some of my favorite cheap weed barrier alternatives—some won’t even cost you a dime!

What’s a weed barrier, you ask? Weed barriers are often placed at the bottom of a garden box or bed. After you place the barrier, you pile on the dirt, plant your seeds or starts, and you’re all set. The barrier ensures that weeds and grabby nearby tree roots don’t invade your garden and steal nutrients.

But weed barriers, especially landscape fabric, can be expensive. So here are a few frugal ways to keep out weeds without hurting your wallet.

Cardboard

When I started my current garden, I was so excited to add dirt to my brand-new raised beds that I completely forgot to add a weed barrier layer. Fast forward a year or two, and my plants ended up battling nearby cedar roots for nutrients.

What a disaster!

Over time, as the dirt level decreased, I decided to add a layer of cardboard and start from scratch with a new batch of soil, compost, and vermiculite. Since then, I’ve had way fewer problems with nutrient deficiencies. I also learned a valuable lesson: always use a weed barrier!

Plus, using cardboard is a great way to get rid of boxes piling up in your house. If your recycling bin can’t handle the volume of packages you receive in the mail, consider using that cardboard in the garden. Ideally, you’ll add a few layers for good measure.

Mulch

If you don’t have access to cardboard or can’t afford landscape fabric, mulch is a great way to keep weeds at bay. My favorite type of mulch is straw or coco coir. By suffocating weed seed, mulch ensures your plants get all the light and nutrients.

If you want free mulch, consider asking nearby farms if they have any extra straw they can give away. Or, shred fallen autumnal leaves for mulch. Leaf mold is both a free and eco-friendly mulch!

Newspaper

Another cheap weed barrier alternative is newspaper. Of course, you’ll need to be getting the newspaper for this to be a cheap solution. You wouldn’t want to have to subscribe just to use the weekly news report as a weed barrier in the garden.

(But I’m strongly for supporting local journalism enterprises! So if you’re on the fence about subscribing, you should know that you can indeed use newspaper as mulch and a weed barrier.

Rocks

When I moved into my home, the front yard garden was filled with small rocks. I hated them with a passion. I tried hard to remove them, but I quickly realized that doing so was going to be harder than I thought. Since then, I’ve used the tiny rocks as a weed barrier for smaller garden areas. What I like about rocks as a weed barrier is that they are great for improving drainage in an area that’s otherwise prone to getting waterlogged.

If you have an abundance of gravel from a landscaping project, consider using it as a bottom layer for your garden beds. If you use rocks, though, make sure you’re sure about your garden’s placement. They’re a pain to remove!

Burlap

Burlap is a little pricier than the other options on this list, but it’s more eco-friendly than landscaping fabric. And, if you know someone who has recently had a shabby-chic wedding, ask them if you can have their leftover burlap tablecloths. Order Burlap here.

There are so many reasons why you should plant wildflower seeds in the fall.

Can you believe I used to think planting flowers was a waste of space? I wanted veggies to take up every ounce of square footage I had when I first started gardening.

Now, my garden contains more flowers than ever before. Planting flowers, wildflowers included, is great for so many reasons. And fall is the perfect time to scatter those seeds.

Why you should plant wildflower seeds in the fall

Here’s why you should plant those seeds soon.

You’ll have flowers in the spring.

Fall planting means you’ll be gifted with pretty blooms as soon as spring arrives—timing, of course, depends on the varieties you choose to plant.

If you’re planting wildflower seed in a cold climate like mine, you need to ensure you get the timing right.

Plant too soon, and you risk having those seeds germinate. If they germinate, they’ll get killed right away by frost.

The best time to sow wildflower seeds is after at least one or two hard frosts. This lowers the chances that a thaw will occur, and the soil will warm enough for seeds to sprout.

In warmer climates, you can plant sooner. Sowing about two to three months before frost arrives allows those flowers to develop root systems that will enable them to survive over winter.

Order seeds here.

Some flower seeds need a period of cold to sprout.

Some seeds, including certain varieties of wildflowers, require a period of cold exposure to germinate. This is called cold stratification. When you plant in the spring, you might have to pop those seeds in the freezer. But by planting in the fall, you let Mother Nature do the hard work for you.

Planting is easier.

Another reason why you should plant wildflower seeds in the fall is that fall is less hectic. And since you’re unlikely to be doing much else, there’s plenty of time to dedicate to sowing wildflower seeds.

Fall also tends to be a nicer season compared to spring. Sure, warm spring weather is lovely. But in the fall, you’re more likely to have pleasant, non-rainy days suitable for working the soil and sowing seeds.

Weeds aren’t as much of an issue.

Weed seed that’s hiding out in your garden won’t be as much of a bother if you plant in the fall. That’s because, at the end of the season, weed seeds have gone dormant.

And, in the spring, weeds won’t have as much time to overtake the wildflowers, and you can easily spot and remove them before they become a problem.

This week I want to take a step back and talk a bit about the essence of the garden.

You might be thinking: Huh? What are you talking about?

As frugal gardeners—and I think this is true of most gardeners—we look at the garden in a practical, utilitarian manner.  How much food can I get out of this small plot of land? How can I maximize my harvest? Can I make my front yard look fabulous on a budget?

But a garden is so much more than just a place to grow food (or plant pretty flowers!)

It’s a place to take a breather, to take in the world, to enjoy peace and quiet, to appreciate life, and to watch what’s going on around you. I think we forget this sometimes. And it’s a shame! Frugal gardeners are all about making the most of what we have on hand, aren’t we? So we should make time to appreciate the garden space for all its incredible qualities.

And it’s possible to do this even if your garden consists of a single potted tomato.

You don’t need to feel bad if your garden isn’t frilly and fancy. There’s no need to have an extravagant English garden to enjoy your time there. Pull up a chair—the comfiest you have—and spend a moment among the plants.

You don’t need to be working every minute. You can appreciate the garden for what it is without toiling away.

This year, I left my garden behind. I planted a few things in the spring, but depression took over and left me with little motivation and energy to do the things I needed for the garden to flourish. I harvested some peppers, cherry tomatoes, and kale, but that’s about it. For a brief moment, I thought to myself. Maybe this is it. Perhaps I’m done with gardening.

And I quickly realized that was a nonsense thought. I’m lucky to have this space full of bright sunlight, teeming with creatures. Whether I return to the full gardening experience or I continue to take an extended break, I’m aware that there’s something to be gained from simply going out there and breathing in the fresh air.

The garden isn’t just a place where I plant things. It’s a place where I observe life in action. Even if I’m not actively planting, there’s plenty of action to notice, from squirrels bounding among the branches of the grand maple tree to birds chittering as they make secret plans to head south.

And so my challenge to you this week is to take a moment in your garden where you stop, pull up a chair, and just sit there. Watch the critters take their last nibbles of plants and pollen before the colder weather sets in. Smell the air as it changes from warm to chilly. Feel the sun on your face. And enjoy the essence of the garden.

Whether that’s sitting on a balcony, hanging out next to a potted tomato plant, or laying out in the grass.

I love grow bags. They’re a great choice for gardeners with limited space, and you can bring them with you if you have to move. But should you use fabric over plastic grow bags? Which type of grow bag is the best option?

Plastic will work in a pinch, but the fabric is my favorite grow bag material.

I’m here to tell you that fabric is your best option when using grow bags. And here’s why:

They promote healthy root growth.

Unlike plastic ones, fabric grow bags are breathable. You can buy fabric grow bags here. The permeable fabric allows roots to breathe and encourages something called air pruning. Have you ever picked up a plastic plant container only to notice the roots are all mangled and twirled up? This is unlikely to occur with a fabric bag because exposure to air in effect prunes the roots.

And this pruning isn’t just good for preventing root-bound plants. It also makes roots healthier and better able to soak up water and nutrients.

They’re easy to transport.

Even when filled with dirt, fabric bags are easy to drag from one place to another. When empty, they’re easy to store, too. You can fold them up and store them in a tiny nook.

They prevent root rot.

Because the fabric is permeable, water easily drains out the bottom, which is not the case with plastic grow bags. Plants that sit in water for days on end can end up dying due to root rot. Over watering is a common mistake, especially with newbie gardeners. You spot an unhealthy-looking plant and assume it needs water, right? Except, often it’s too much water that’s the problem. With fabric grow bags, you’ll never overwater again.

They don’t overheat.

Plastic is a great material of choice for keeping heat-loving plants happy because it tends to soak up heat. But in the middle of the summer, when the weather gets too hot, plastic can help plants on their way to overheating. Fabric is less likely to cook your plants to death. It can even help keep the soil cool.

You can reuse them.

You probably think fabric pots aren’t reusable. Well, you’d be wrong! You can reuse most fabric pots for at least a few years. And they aren’t prone to cracking or UV damage like plastic.

What to plant in fabric bags

You can plant just about anything in fabric grow bags, but my absolutely favorite plant to grow in these containers is potato. Potatoes can take up a lot of room, and it can be tough to dig them out in a regular garden bed—raised or not. But when you grow them in a fabric bag, just dump out the soil at the end of the season and gently sift through the dirt to find those starchy treasures.

Ultimately, anything you can grow in your regular garden will grow in a fabric grow bag. Grow bags are great for patios and balconies. They’re also great when you’ve run out of room in your main garden beds and need a place to plant on short notice.

It’s time to start thinking about winding down for the season. Especially if you live in a cold climate like me.

You’re probably thinking: “Wait. Isn’t it too early?”

True! It’s too early to be shutting down the garden just yet. You’re probably still harvesting. And maybe you’ve even planted some cool-season crops that you plan to harvest in the fall.

So that’s why I’m talking about winding down and not closing up shop.

It’s time to start thinking about winding down, which means it’s time to think ahead. It doesn’t mean you need to do everything all at once. By starting early, you can do a gradual cleanup of the garden. This strategy is a whole lot less overwhelming than a complete cleanup at the end of the season.

Winding down for the season: How to do it

Here are some things to think about as you walk about in your garden this September.

Get rid of any dead plants. Do this now. Wait too long, and the ground will freeze, making it tough to pull out plants completely. Pulling plants now also decreases the chances that pests will make a home out of the dead foliage for the winter.

Add organic matter to empty slots in the garden. Start amending the soil now in preparation for the spring. You don’t need to wait to do it all in one fell swoop, though. As you toss dead pepper and tomato plants, add compost to those spots.

Put away spring-specific tools. Tidy up tools and supplies you don’t need anymore. This includes seed starting stuff. Many gardeners keep these supplies hanging around because they’re in ‘growing mode’ throughout the summer season. But now it’s time to put those things away. Clean them up now, so they’re ready to use in the spring.

Plant bulbs. Some flowers and perennials do best when planted in the fall. You don’t want to plant too early, but now is the time to start thinking about what you might want to plant and where.

Collect other supplies. Already bought your fall planting bulbs? Great! You’re right on track. You might need other supplies for your garden wind down, though. Grab things like mulch and soil amendments now, so you have them on hand when it’s time to use them for things like protecting perennial and tree roots from freeze-thaw cycles.

Ask someone for help. Tree leaves are still bright green, but they’ll start turning vibrant colors and dropping like flies when fall arrives. If you have many leaf-shedding trees around your garden and home, enlist some leaf raking help now. Ask family and friends if they’ll help you when the time comes and offer some fresh produce in exchange for a helping hand.

Catalog your seeds. Take stock of what you have on hand for next year and make a note of what needs replenishing. I like to take a break from gardening in the winter, so I try not to think about seeds or other garden-related things when it’s cold outside. But I always make sure to check my seed collection before closing up shop. You might decide to save some seeds from plants in your garden if you’re running low.

What’s your take on winding down for the season? Do you do it all at once, or do you take it slow like I do?

I know not all frugal gardeners like this kind of piecemeal approach to closing up the garden. But for gardeners with limited energy stores, taking it slow can be a real help. As a gardener with a chronic illness, sometimes small tasks can feel insurmountable. Breaking them up makes it possible to get them done and reserve energy for cooking all the lovely produce I harvest.

Farmer in rubber boots standing on muddy dirt road in countryside, feet from above

While it’s not necessarily a problem in all locations, many people have to worry about protecting their garden from excessive rainfall.

Plants love water! Too little, and they’ll wither away. But too much water can also cause problems.

Plants that are stuck drowning in waterlogged soil can succumb to root rot.

These days, unpredictable weather is more and more commonplace. Periods of drought followed by flash floods are not unheard of. And this wild weather can have negative consequences for your home garden.

So how can you protect your garden from excessive rainfall? Here are a few tips.

How to protect the garden from excessive rainfall

Here’s what to do to keep your plants from drowning after a rainstorm.

Plan ahead.

I’m not talking about checking the weather. I’m talking about being particularly careful during the garden planning process. Avoid starting a garden in an area where water pools. After heavy rainfall, plants in these areas are more likely to die due to root rot.

And make sure the soil drains well. Add organic matter to the soil to improve its condition and drainage capabilities.

Stop walking on the soil.

Make sure you can reach all areas of your garden plot without having to walk on the soil. Walking on soil compacts it and can make it more likely to become waterlogged in the future.

The University of Delaware Cooperative Extension has some helpful tips on how to avoid soil compaction.

Quit watering!

This is an obvious one, but it’s something people forget to do. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and turn off your sprinklers and irrigation systems before a rainstorm. And I know the weather seems nice right now, but unless your plants are dying of thirst, skip hand watering when a storm is brewing.

Clean your gutters.

Grab a ladder and clean out your gutters to protect your garden from excessive rainfall. Clogged gutters can cause water runoff and flood your garden beds.

Pick plants wisely.

If flooding is an inevitability where you live, choose plants that can tolerate moist, humid conditions. Select disease-resistant varieties that aren’t as likely to pick up fungal or viral infections brought on by very wet weather.

Use raised beds.

Raised beds and containers (with drainage holes) are less likely to become waterlogged than in-ground beds. You can find one on Amazon here. They’re also great for areas where the soil isn’t super fertile. Bonus: No more kneeling and way less bending over!

Add a French drain to your yard.

DIY this helpful drainage solution called a French drain to improve drainage on your property.