Trees provide shade, shelter, and beauty. They also support an abundance of wildlife. But having trees on your property can also be a lot of work.

Raking leaves, pruning branches, shaping growth, and dealing with disease are all things you’ll need to deal with if you decide to rent or buy a home surrounding by trees. In some cases, you may need to remove a tree if it becomes too diseased to save—especially if there’s a risk of it toppling over and damaging nearby structures. Tree removal costs vary significantly, but removing a dying tree might save you money in the long run.

I know someone who had a tree fall straight into their fence and into their neighbor’s yard. They hadn’t even realized it was diseased! Regular tree maintenance should include inspections to check for sneaky illnesses. Had the tree fallen the wrong way, it could have decimated the wood deck, the home, or seriously injured someone.

Most towns won’t let you remove a tree without a very good reason. I happen to think this is how it should be. You shouldn’t be removing a tree unless it’s dying or damaging your home’s foundation. In most locations, you’ll need a permit to cut down a tree on your property. Go ahead with the removal without permission from your city, and you risk hefty fines.

If you’ve confirmed your tree is diseased, always check local regulations to determine the steps necessary before cutting it down. Don’t do it yourself. Call a professional to get the job done. Arborists are qualified professionals who can do a variety of tree-related jobs, from Tree Trimming and pruning to felling.

Tree removal cost

So how much does tree removal cost? It varies depending on your location. You should contact a few professionals for quotes before signing a contract. Go with the professionals who have certifications and will clean up after the job is done.

Tree removal cost also depends on the size of the tree. Removal of smaller trees under 30 feet high may cost less than $500. The bigger the tree, the more involved the job, and the higher the price. Larger trees can cost upwards of $1,000 to remove.

If the tree is in a tricky location (e.g., near power lines), you can expect things to be a bit more complicated and the cost to skyrocket.

Source: https://www.homeadvisor.com/cost/lawn-and-garden/tree-removal/ 

Grow bags are an excellent container option for the frugal gardener. They’re extremely versatile and work for a variety of plants. Did you know that you can reuse them from year to year, too? Here’s how to reuse grow bags and save money down the line.

What is a grow bag?

A grow bag is a flexible container for growing plants. It’s usually made out of a breathable fabric. The breathable material lets air and water through but keeps all your earth neatly contained.

Benefits of using grow bags

Grow bags have a ton of wonderful advantages and are especially useful for frugal gardeners. They are great for:

People on a budget. If you don’t have a lot of money to spend on fancy containers, grow bags are an excellent choice. They’re fairly durable, so you can reuse them for several years.

People without a lot of room. If you have a small space or are gardening on a patio or balcony, grow bags are an excellent option. They’re available in multiple sizes, and when they’re empty, they fold down flat. You can also drag them around in spaces where the light moves around quite a bit, which can help you keep your plants happy.

Temporary gardening spaces. Not sure if you’ll be gardening in the same location next year? Use grow bags! When you’re done, they can come with you. They’re easy to store and transport when empty.

Certain plants. Grow bags are great for growing certain kinds of plants. I’m particularly fond of growing potatoes inside large grow bags. It keeps the potato plants contained, and at the end of the season, I just dump out the earth making it easier to spot ready-to-eat tubers.

Beginner gardeners. If you’re new to gardening, building raised beds or creating an in-ground plot can seem like daunting tasks. Grow bags are easy and convenient growing vessels that require not an ounce of physical labor.

How to reuse grow bags

You’ll get more life out of your grow bags if you empty them and store them in a dry place over the winter. Dump out the earth in your compost bin (or in a raised garden bed, if available) and then rinse, dry, and store your bags for the season.

You can also leave them full of dirt and reuse them next year. You’ll need to mix in fresh compost next season.

However, if any of your plants were diseased or experienced severe pest infestations, you’re better off safe than sorry. Toss out all the dirt and start fresh.

Some grow bags are also safe to toss in the washing machine, which is great if you need to sterilize them once the growing season is done. Never put grow bags in the dryer, though. The heat can cause shrinkage or weaken the fabric.

By reusing your grow bags, you can save money and avoid waste.

If your grow bags rip, don’t throw them away! You can use the pieces as a weed barrier in pots or raised beds.

While every other region seems to be experiencing a thaw, it’s still mostly frozen here. My starts are happily enjoying their spots under the indoor lights and this weekend I’ll be starting another batch of plants like kale and Chinese broccoli. I happened upon a sale and purchased two additional plastic shelving units to hang a bunch of lights I had on hand. The extra space will give me plenty of room to repot tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, and even start a few extras like flowers and herbs. So far, so good! But that doesn’t mean I never have to troubleshoot while seed starting.

Every gardener has run into problems at one point or another. Unfortunately, a lot of information out there doesn’t address the many things that could go wrong. Sometimes, even when you follow all the steps, your plants still die, pests still munch on all your greens, and seeds fail to germinate. I recently received a question that I thought would be worth answering here.

Troubleshoot the seed starting process

The beans I put in a couple of weeks ago haven’t germinated and have gotten moldy.  Are they going to germinate? 

The unfortunate answer is no. Bean seeds are notoriously quick to germinate, and their large size makes it easy to spot when that’s happening. Let’s troubleshoot the seed starting process. Here are a few reasons those seeds may have failed to germinate:

Inadequate moisture

Seeds need moisture to germinate. That doesn’t mean you should drown your soil in water. Too much water can lead to rot. This isn’t just an issue with seeds, many plants don’t do well when they’re drowning in water. Waterlogged soil can lead to root rot. Many new plant owners actually kill their indoor houseplants this way.

It’s too cold

Beans will sprout in soil that’s at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (about 15 degrees Celcius). The ideal range is between 70 and 80 degrees, though. If you’re growing in a basement where it tends to get chilly, consider adding heating mats underneath your pots or plant trays. Sprouting seeds near a window? In the daytime, when exposed to sunlight your plants may be nice and toasty, but on cloudy days or during the evenings, the temperatures likely dip considerably. Although it may be tempting, NEVER use a space heater to keep your plants warm unless you’re in the room and supervising. Space heaters can lead to fires if left unattended.

It’s too hot

Certain seeds actually prefer cooler temperatures. Applying heat may be hindering the process. Seeds like lettuce and kale, for instance, might not germinate if conditions are too hot.

Seeds are too old

Properly preserved seeds can last a while in storage, but most folks simply fold down the packet and toss it wherever is convenient. If your seeds are over a year old and haven’t been stored in an airtight container, it’s possible they’re no longer viable. If you just purchased the seeds? It could be that you received a bad batch. You can try contacting the seed company to ask for a replacement. Buy from reputable companies to avoid getting bad-quality seeds.

Disease

Did you notice a small seedling only to return a day later and find the baby plant shriveled and dead? Damping-off occurs when seedlings are exposed to a fungal disease either through contaminated soil or unsanitary garden implements and accessories. Prevent this from happening by sanitizing your seed trays, pots, and tools every year. Purchase a sterile seed starting mix from a reputable company.

It’s ok to ignore algae

If you’re working with a hydroponic setup, you may notice algae build-up on your soil pods. It’s a bit unsightly but it’s anything to worry about. If it bothers you, you can cover the pods with tin foil to prevent algae growth.

A note about mold

Are you wondering what’s with all the mold? If you’re noticing a fuzzy white substance covering your freshly soil-filled pots or trays, it’s a sign that you’re overwatering your seedlings or that your growing area isn’t properly ventilated. Placing a fan in your growing space will help strengthen seedlings and keep air circulating. Watering from below may also help reduce the risk of mold growth.

A specific tip for growing beans

Don’t bother starting them indoors. Wait until all chance of frost has passed and direct sow seeds outside. Why? Beans don’t respond well to the transplanting process. You’ll have healthier bean plants if you sow outdoors.

I like to plants a few different bean varieties that mature at different times, so I always have a steady stream of beans to harvest for my dinner plate. Beans are pretty easy to grow, and they’re really fun to harvest. Finding ready-to-eat pods among the foliage is like a gardening treasure hunt!

Other seeds that prefer to be direct-seeded:

• carrots
• radishes
• rutabaga
• beets
• parsnip
• parsley

Something all these have in common is that they have a large taproot. Transplanting tends to disturb the taproot and can stress the plant to the point of no return. It doesn’t mean you can’t start these indoors ever, but chances are higher that your plants will become stressed during transplanting.

Gardeners—especially those new to the hobby—may find it tough to distinguish between bad bugs and beneficial insects. It can take some time to get a hang of which bugs to leave alone and which to squish dead. Unfortunately, some good garden bugs have evil lookalikes. Case in point: ladybugs versus Asian lady beetles.

How can you tell the two apart? And which one do you want to keep around while you kick the other to the curb?

Ladybugs versus Asian Lady Beetles

Many gardeners are happy to find ladybugs hanging around their plots. While they don’t pollinate plants like bees and butterflies, they hungrily snatch up a variety of garden pests, including aphids.

The Asian lady beetle, on the other hand, is considered a pest. They leave behind a smelly yellow residue and because they aren’t native to North America, they’ve quickly overtaken resources destined for native ladybugs. They also bite and tend to gather in large groups—yuck!

While lady beetles look quite similar to ladybugs, they aren’t even the same species! Confused yet? Not to worry, here’s a breakdown of the differences between the two:

Ladybugs

• do not bite
• are beneficial garden insects
• eat pests like mites, aphids, and whiteflies
• are bright red and have black spots
• are very round (or oval-shaped)
• have nearly all-black heads with two distinct white markings
• overwinter outdoors

Ladybeetles

• are biters
• eat some garden pests
• gather in groups and often turn into household pests during the colder months
• leave behind yellow goop with a nasty smell, it’s not dangerous but it can stain surfaces
• are bigger than ladybugs
• have a coloring that varies from red to orange
• have a pointier shape
• always have a white M or W-shaped marking on their head

What do you do if you have lady beetles around or inside your home? Vacuum them up and immediately dispose of them. You can also buy store-bought traps to catch them. Orkin pest control recommends making sure all cracks and gaps in your home’s exterior are filled. Additionally, if you’re struggling to control the issue, don’t wait before calling in the help of experts.

Another Nasty Beetle

Another Asian beetle that wreaks havoc on gardens is the Japanese beetle. It’s actually more destructive than the Asian lady beetle, but a lot easier to tell apart. Instead of red-coloring, Japanese beetles have iridescent reddish-green carapaces that shimmer in the sunlight.

They would be lovely to look at if they didn’t eat everything in their path! Thankfully, they tend to attack gardens in cycles. One year, you might have a swarm of Japanese beetles descending on your beans and flowers, and the next they might be gone altogether.

Need some help with identification? Check out this helpful YouTube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SyPD_qn_ZU

Wondering which types of winter squash are best for small gardens? Read on to find out about compact winter squash varieties that provide the most bang for your buck. They’re perfect for the frugal gardener!

Summer squash gets all the glory. It grows quickly and provides a high yield. My all-time favorite variety patty-pan matures in less than two months in the right conditions and keeps on giving throughout the season.

On the other hand, winter squash requires a longer growing season and, in most cases, needs more space than summer squash. Does winter squash belong in the frugal garden? Absolutely! Squash—winter or summer—is a nutritious, staple vegetable that’s worth growing. Pumpkin is a winter squash variety that I covered about a week ago. The post contains information on the challenges of growing a large vining crop like pumpkins. 

Difference between winter and summer squash

Winter squashes have hard flesh and thick skins, unlike their delicate summer cousins. I should point out that winter squashes aren’t actually harvested in December, as the name suggests. Instead, they’re picked in the fall and are easily preserved throughout the winter months because of their thick-skinned character. Winter squash keeps much longer than summer squash. To ensure your squash lasts as long as possible, be careful not to prick or damage the outer skin. 

Note that some winter squashes don’t keep as long. Use these up first!

Best varieties to try out

If you’re tight on space, vining varieties are a no-go unless you have the patience to train and trellis your squashes vertically. Personally, while I love seeing vertically grown produce in other people’s gardens, I haven’t yet mastered the technique. In the past, my handmade trellises haven’t been strong enough to hold heavy squashes, and they mostly ended up taking up ground space. 

Bush or semi-bush varieties are a viable option for space-starved gardeners. Bonus: they don’t take as long to mature as other squash types. Most compact squashes have cute names that signal their miniature plant size.

Here’s a handy list of compact winter squash varieties for those with less room:

• Sugar Dumpling 
• Bush Delicata 
• Burpee’s Butterbush
• Red Kuri – One of the first winter squashes I ever grew in a shaded patch of garden at my parent’s home. I managed to get a single beautiful bright red squash. I barely knew what I was doing, and it’s insane that anything grew in that patch of dirt, but this will forever be a favorite of mine.
• Sugarbush

Tips for growing winter squash

Some folks prefer to start seeds indoors and transplant winter squash seedlings in the early summer months, while others find direct seeding is more successful. I’ve had some success with direct sowing, but the very variable weather is always a challenge. 

Planting squash of any type, even compact winter squash varieties, gives your plants plenty of room. Crowding your squash babies is likely to stunt growth and result in a less than stellar yield. 

Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment. If you want to try your hand at vertically growing butternut squash or letting those pumpkin vines flow along your garden path, go for it. No rule says you can’t. 

Source:

https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-pumpkins-and-winter-squash-home-gardenshttps://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-pumpkins-and-winter-squash-home-gardens

Before you discount the idea of free funeral plants, bear with me on this one. Getting free plants from a funeral home is possible. However, you may have to step out of your comfort zone for this trick. Even those of you who consider yourselves outgoing might feel a bit odd about using a funeral home as a free plant source (This is one of the main reasons I left it out of Ways To Get Plants For Free).

Funeral homes are an excellent place to get free plants because almost everyone has the same initial reaction as you did. Ultimately, this means that in a nation where there is competition for virtually everything, this is one area where hardly a single person is taking advantage.

Almost every town has at least one funeral home and most funerals involve flowers and plants. Years ago, I became aware that many families leave plants and flowers at the funeral home for various reasons. Often, it’s because many people just don’t have the space for all of them at home.

How to Get Free Funeral Plants

Here’s how to set up a local funeral home connection.

The first step is to call the funeral home, introduce yourself, and explain your offer to them. You can solve their problem of what to do with the plants—at no cost to them. If they express any interest at all, leave your name, phone number, and email. You should promise to pick up any plants within 24 hours of a phone call.

If you don’t sense a positive reaction to your offer, ask to speak to a supervisor or owner, and repeat the offer. If that call doesn’t garner some interest, thank them and move on to the next name on your list.

You might be surprised when you get your first return phone call. At this point, ask for specific directions as to when and where to pick up the plants. Follow them to the letter. After the first pick up, follow up with a note to the funeral home, thanking them and giving them your contact information again.

What to do With Your Haul

Once the plants are at home, do some sorting and decide which plants can go outdoors and which are going to become houseplants. Depending on the time of year and the weather in your zone, you can either get your new plants in the ground or treat the whole batch as house plants until you can safely plant them outside.

There may be a few plants in the bunch that has seen better days by the time you get them home. This is nothing to fret about. You can add the plant to your compost pile, put the soil in your container of potting mix and clean up the pot so you can put it to good use.

All in all, you stand to gain many plants for very little effort. It’s all a matter of getting over that first hurdle most people have about dealing with a funeral home.

Compost is an essential medium for any gardener. It enriches the soil, provides nutrients to plants, and helps improve soil composition. It’s also easy to make compost using simple items you probably have lying around your home. Here’s how to make a 5-gallon bucket compost bin to get yourself some free compost.

Tools

I covered a similar topic earlier this year when I blogged about creating a low-cost worm compost bin. If you’re not a fan of worms and want to avoid dealing directly with creepy crawlies, here’s an alternative method for creating your own compost.

Often, people use storebought bins to compost produce scraps and yard refuse. You can also build a bin from scratch. If you’re not very handy and don’t have room for a full-size compost bin, you’re in luck! A bucket compost system works in a pinch and is great for people who garden on their balconies or porch.

What do you need?

• A 5-gallon bucket. That’s pretty much it. If you don’t have one, you can probably grab one at your local hardware store for cheap. But ask around, someone you know might have one they don’t need.
• A drill. This is to drill holes in the bucket. If you don’t have power tools, use a hammer and nail.

Assembling Your DIY Compost Bin

Take your 5-gallon compost bucket and drill holes in the bottom and the lid. You need to let the compost aerate to prevent mold growth.

Use something at the bottom of your bin to prevent the drainage holes from getting lodged with waste. You can use sticks, rocks, whatever works.

The next step? Filling up the bucket!

You can fill your 5-gallon DIY compost bucket with fruit and veggie scraps, grass clippings, and other compost-friendly materials. Not sure what you can put in? Here’s a handy guide.

It’s best to keep your bin outside to prevent odors from stinking up your home. Roll the bin around occasionally to ensure the materials mix together. If you choose to line the bottom of your bin with rocks, it may be tougher to mix the contents, though.

Always make sure the lid is tightly affixed to the bucket to keep pests from breaking in and feasting on your rotting materials.

How Long Will it Take?

It can take a while for matter in your compost bucket to decompose fully. The rate of decomposition depends on the weather, where you live, and what you stuff inside. Avoid filling the bin up too much. If there’s not enough air, it’ll take longer for stuff to break down.

Help your 5-gallon bucket compost bin contents along by putting your bin in a spot with lots of sunlight.

Need a visual guide to get your 5-gallon compost bucket ready? Check out this YouTube tutorial:

In this review, I’ll explain how the seeding square makes organized planting a cinch! 

The Square Foot Gardening method has been my go-to since I began gardening. I love it for many reasons. It allows me to maximize my planting space and close spacing keeps weed growth to a minimum. My favorite aspect, though, is how organized everything looks. I love that each square foot has a purpose. The spacing requirements make it easy to spot weeds and thinning seedlings is a piece of cake.

However, even with a grid it can be tough to accurately eyeball spacing—especially for crops like carrots and radishes, whose spacing is 16 per square foot. My self-made holes aren’t always perfectly aligned, and I often get the planting depth wrong. And when I opt to use the SFG method in beds without grids,  I often forget where I’ve started sowing.

How Does it Work?

The Seeding Square is an attempt to make the Square Foot Gardening method even easier. Sure, a stick works wonders in a pinch, but having perfectly spaced holes really makes a difference.

The gardening tool ships in a square-shaped box. The square itself is slightly raised with a hollow back end to allow for indentations in the soil. As you stamp the square into the earth, it creates a makeshift grid.

The Seeding Square includes a small plastic dibbler with seed depth indicators. On the other side of the wand is a spoon-shaped end for scooping up seeds. The third funnel piece, which clicks to the unit for storage, helps direct seeds into their respective holes.

The Seeding Square itself is full of color-coded holes to help guide your planting. If you’re planting carrot seeds, for instance, you can use the wand to poke 16 holes through the red-colored circles. The color-coding concept is a fantastic teaching tool for introducing newcomers to the SFG method. It’s also a great way to involve kids in gardening. If you’re totally new to gardening, don’t worry because the package includes planting guides to help gardeners get started.  You can also download them online.

My Thoughts on the Seeding Square

Last week, the soil finally warmed, and I was ready to start sowing cool-weather plants like spinach and bok choy. It was the perfect time to put the Seeding Square to the test.

First off, I’ll say that I was incredibly impressed with the construction of the gardening accessory. It’s super sturdy, and I wasn’t afraid to press it firmly into the soil. I imagine it’ll hold up for a long while. (update: 1 year later and it’s still going strong!)

Part of my garden features semi-permanent wooden grids, which is where I first began my planting with the Seeding Square. It’s a bit tough to use the square atop a grid, but if my beds were completely filled, I suspect it would be easier. I still was able to poke the holes I needed and finished with planting in no time at all.

The Seeding Square really made my life easier in the no-grid portion of my garden. A quick press into the soil and my faux-grid was complete. I expect perfect squares of seedlings to pop up any day now!

I didn’t end up using the spoon end of the wand nor did I find myself choosing to use the funnel, but they’re helpful add-ons that others may find useful. There’s also little chance of losing the wand because it magnetizes to the square.

The square itself is super easy to clean, too. A quick rinse under the tap and it looked good as new.

An Inexpensive Tool for Frugal Gardeners

I look forward to using the Seeding Square throughout the season and beyond. It’s a well thought out tool that’s built-to-last, and it works exactly as intended. I even left my first planting day of the season without dirt under my fingernails!

What I’m about to type is a bit of blasphemy in the world of SFG, but the Seeding Square has me thinking that I may not replace my grids once they eventually rot away.

Why do I recommend this product to frugal gardeners? It’s a small investment that will last you a long time. It’s also a great entry tool for those interested in Square Foot Gardening. I’m a big believer that organization in the garden leads to pennies saved.

Check out the Seeding Square website for more info. The product may also be purchased on Amazon.

Disclaimer: I was graciously gifted a seeding square in exchange for an honest review. 

Potting up plants is a messy business. Even when I’m being careful, I manage to get soil everywhere.

One of my favorite plants in my home, though, requires no soil at all. I bought the plant at the grocery store several years ago for about $3 and today, it’s almost as tall as me! All it needs is water to flourish.

Sounds too good to be true, right?

But I’m absolutely serious. It’s possible to grow plants without soil. This is something that air plant enthusiasts already know. There are a host of plants that grow in water.

Plants That Grow in Water

Most people think of houseplants as soil-bound creatures, but not every plant needs the earth to survive. Many plants actually thrive in water. Here are five plants that grow in water.

Lucky Bamboo

My lucky bamboo plant is my pride and joy. I brought it home several years ago and never thought it would become as big as it has. I simply filled up a vase with rocks and pebbles, set the bamboo inside, and topped it off with water. The plant has been growing like a weed ever since! While some sources might caution against using regular ole’ tap water to satisfy a bamboo plant’s thirst, my plant has gotten by just fine with it.

Did you know that lucky bamboo is also pet safe? It’s an ideal low-maintenance plant that’s non-toxic to dogs, cats, and birds.

Pothos

Also known as Devil’s Ivy, this trailing plant grows exceptionally well in water. Unlike bamboo, though, pothos plants require some fertilization. Any all-purpose liquid fertilizer should do the trick. In my experience, pothos plants don’t need too much attention, so they’re another excellent choice for busy plant lovers.

Philodendron

My heart-leaf philodendron is one of my favorite houseplants because it requires so little care. It’s a stunning hanging plant that does well in water. If you plan to grow it in water, though, make sure to change the water frequently and check for algae growth.

Dracaena

This woody-stemmed plant is also well suited for growing in water. Filtered water is best, and it should be changed frequently to prevent algae growth. It’s a fairly big plant, so pick out a large vessel to support it.

English Ivy

It’s possible to grow English ivy cuttings in a glass jar or vase. It’ll take a long time before the plant is ready to transplant into soil. It’s a quick-growing trailing plant, so it’s great for hanging planters. Add ivy to the top of a bookshelf and let the vine trail down for a wild effect.

Propagation

You can also propagate many indoor plants using water. This entails taking cuttings from an existing plant and rooting the piece in water. It can take some time for the roots to develop, but once they do, you just need to plant the piece in soil.

It’s an easy way to create more greenery for your home. You can also propagate new plants to share with friends and family. Some people also like to swap cuttings by mail.

Get free plants and save money on your favorite pastime. 

While gardening is one of the largest hobbies in the US, how expensive a hobby depends a lot on how you approach it. It can be quite an expensive hobby when you purchase everything retail. However, it can also be an extremely frugal hobby for those who put a little extra time and creativity into how they get their gardens started.

In fact, it is quite possible to get an entire garden of plants for free. It’s a challenge that I succeeded in doing in the past. Below you’ll find ten ways that I was able to accomplish growing my garden for free.

How to Get Free Plants

Free plants? Sounds like it’s too good to be true!

It’s actually way easier than you’d think to source plants for free. Here are 10 ways to get free plants for your garden.

Craigslist and Other Online Marketplaces

Post a wanted ad on Craigslist, asking for free plants. Most gardeners love to help others out when they have excess in their own garden. (If you have some plants already, this is a great place to offer to trade plants). Another free site you can request free plants is on FreeCycle. You can also browse online marketplaces to find people who are giving their plants away for free. I often find local sellers giving away houseplants, cuttings, and perennials on the Facebook Marketplace. Something else you might find on these sites is free dirt. When people do any kind of landscaping or construction, there’s often a lot of digging going on. They’re left with a pile of dirt and nowhere to put it. Usually, as long as you have a way to pick up the extra soil, it’s all yours!

Nursery

While you wouldn’t typically think about getting free plants at a nursery, they can be an excellent place to get them. Always take the time to ask if the nursery has any plants that they’re going to be tossing? A part of the business is that sad-looking plants don’t sell well and they need to get rid of them somehow. That often means throwing them out. When you pick up free plants this way, they won’t look very good the first year, but with some TLC many can make a wonderful come back and look great for years to come.

Landscaping Crews

Another great place to get free plants is from landscaping crews. If you see a landscaping crew working on a job where they are replacing displays, be sure to stop and ask what they are going to do with the plants they are taking out. Often times the plants being replaced are going to be thrown out or composted. It doesn’t hurt to ask, and more often than not you’ll come away with a large number of plants.

One note with this approach is that you’d better be prepared for them to “gift” you with everything they were going to compost. You will want to travel with a kit for these situations in your vehicle which includes empty boxes, buckets, trash bags, garden gloves, etc. This approach is especially effective in civic gardens or at large commercial jobs.

Yellow Pages

Not having luck in finding landscapers on the road? Another effective approach is to open up the yellow pages and get on the phone. Call all the local landscapers and gardeners listed. Ask what they do with plants they remove from jobs. If they give you any indication that they toss those plants, offer to go pick up the garbage-bound plants. You’ll save them the money it would normally cost in disposal fees.

Friends and Family

If you have friends that also garden, then you have a treasure trove of free plants waiting for you. Tell all your friends you’re interested in adding to your garden and you’d be happy to help them divide their perennials, especially if they will share new starts with you.

Strangers

Heck, there’s no reason to stop with friends. Tell perfect strangers that you’re trying to add to your garden. Taking walks in neighborhoods notorious for their great gardens is a great way to do this. If you see someone working in their garden, be quick about telling them how terrific things look. Most gardeners are friendly and just love to talk plants. You’ll also find that most are also quite generous. Don’t be afraid to ask for a slip or start of what they are working on. If they have a mature garden, they are probably on the lookout for ways to get rid of excess plants.

Community Garden Groups

Join volunteer gardening organizations in your community. Native plant societies, city beautification work parties, and invasive plant clean up crews are some that come to mind. All of these activities will be filled with other gardeners. You can get free plants and advice as you work side by side and make new friends.

Volunteer Plants

Keep your eyes open when you’re working in your garden early in the spring for plants making their way up on their own. These plants are called “volunteer plants” or “babies” that are coming up from seed.

The volunteer plants will often be a surprise since you did not specifically plant them. This means they likely won’t appear where you’d expect them to be. The volunteer plants are quite easy to unearth with your hoe as you clean up. Simply save them, mark them or pot them up and move to a safe place to get a bit bigger before planting them in a permanent spot.

Save Seeds

If you already have plants, simply save their seeds to use in future years. It’s an easy, eco-friendly way to get free plants. You can either start by using them to grow new plants indoors to place in the garden or sow them directly into the garden in the spring/summer. Also, be sure to save more than you need for your own garden. This will give you a supply of seeds to trade with others to bring in new plants to your garden for free.

Be Generous With Your Garden

While giving away extras from your own garden doesn’t seem like a way to get free plants, in the world of gardening it’s the way things work. The more generous you are, the more free plants that will end up at your door. I don’t have a detailed explanation of why this works, but it does and you’ll find that the more generous you are with the plants in your garden, the more that will find their way to your own garden.

Get More Bang for Your Buck

While this isn’t a free way to get plants from day one, it is a way to get them in future years. If you do need to purchase some plants, be sure to buy the kinds that will pay dividends. Buy perennial plants that need dividing every 3 – 5 years.

You can also start your own cuttings from woody-stemmed type shrubs. Flowers like dahlias & calla lilies come from tubers that need to be divided regularly, too. Over just a few years, an initial investment in these types of plants will yield a very full garden.

There are also numerous houseplants that you can divide. Some, like the easy-to-care-for spider plant, will even produce babies for you.

If you’ve got other suggestions about ways to procure free plants, I’d love to hear about them — I’ll just have to clear out another flower bed first!

Here’s a quick video on how to divide perennials if you’re not quite sure how to do it: