I made two serious gardening mistakes this season that I think are worth sharing with you all. One was a mistake that I shouldn’t have made and another a simple error with significant consequences. 

This summer has been tough for gardening. Things are growing, but the numerous heat waves have caused plants to struggle. Even the ones who love the sun and heat! This type of extreme weather already has me thinking about the future of my garden. Will I be able to plant the myriad of greens I typically enjoy planting in the spring ever again? The shortened spring and quick arriving summer weather made it challenging to plant some of the stuff I’m used to. Now, the heat is causing even my peppers blossoms to drop. I’ve already begun browsing seed catalogs to find heat-tolerant varieties of everything I like to plant. 

Enough lamenting about the weather, though. Here are the two mistakes I will aim never to make again:

1. Not checking nursery plants for insects

I was in such a hurry to plant and fill out my garden beds after a mass seedling failure that I bought plants without checking for pests that had already taken up residence. I was careful to throw away leftover seed starting mix after the seedling massacre because it’s clear that something was contaminated. In my rush, though, I planted healthy veg without looking for hiding insects, and I suffered the consequences. My pest covers were working wonders until I introduced an already infested plant underneath. The cabbage worm population increased exponentially, so I’ve had to continuously head to the garden each day to pick them off and control the infestation. Thankfully, the kale has grown big and strong and can handle a bit of damage. 

2. Leaving the pest cover open overnight. 

I have another bed covered to prevent pests, but a few nights ago, I completely forgot to close it. Cabbage moths quickly found their way inside and had a party. Instead of having another batch of brassicas infested, I decided to pull up most of the kale in that bed and plant fall carrots, beans, and beets that won’t succumb to these pests. I left a few plants, though, as sacrificial items that I hope might draw cabbage moths away from other brassicas. While this was a costly mistake that was preventable, I’m less upset about it. Because, honestly, sh*t happens in the garden and all you can do is shrug it off and find a way to deal with or make the best of it. 

Which pest is giving you a hard time this year?

Have you had the problem before and do you intend to plant the vegetable again next year? Why or why not? Leave a comment and tell me about it! 

Think about the last time you were severely dehydrated. You probably felt sluggish. Maybe you also had a pounding headache. Overall, it’s not a fun experience. A garden probably feels the same way when it lacks water. Like humans, plants need H2O to survive and can’t live long without hydration. 

Over the years, I’ve learned a thing or two about best watering practices, but I’ve also managed to create my own routine. I know some gardeners who prefer to irrigate their beds. Others prefer to use sprinkler systems. The watering method you choose is entirely up to you. 

I use a hose with multiple nozzle settings and use a gentle spray to water my vegetable plants. I like the multi-function nozzle because I can use it for other outdoor tasks (like bathing my dogs, which they hate with a passion!). My hose is expandable and ultra-long, so I can reach every area of my garden without struggling or hauling around a bulky accessory. 

It’s important to me that I water carefully and considerately to prevent waste. Water is a precious resource, after all. 

Here are a few tips to keep your thirsty plants happy while avoiding waste:

• Water in the early morning or late evening. It’s incredibly pointless to water once the sun is high up in the sky. The strong rays will quickly evaporate lingering moisture on the topsoil and you run the risk of burning foliage. Little droplets that sit on leaves turn into magnifying glasses that will intensify the sun’s heat and damage plants. It’s also just a lot more pleasant to water when the temperatures are bearable, and the sun isn’t beating down on you. Your city may also have special rules about watering times. Watering outside of those hours (usually morning and evening) can get you into trouble.

• Water from below. Getting leaves wet won’t always cause problems, but you increase the risk of disease occurrence and pest activity. Water from below is also more effective since plants typically draw moisture via their roots.

• Mulch. Mulch. Mulch. Heavy mulching has been a game changer for me. For a long time, I struggled to keep my plants well watered. The topsoil would dry out rapidly, and I’d be left with a desiccated wasteland. When I started mulching around the base of my plants, I discovered that I could conserve moisture, water less frequently, and keep my plants happy. Now, I’m never without mulch on hand. I typically use straw, wood chips, or coco coir to mulch my plants.

• Check in with Mother Nature. Check the weather forecast and keep track of how much it has rained. It’s entirely unnecessary to water your garden if there was a rainstorm the night prior. We’re having a rainy summer this year, and I’ve been carefully monitoring the forecast to ensure I don’t double water for no reason. Letting Mother Nature do the work gives me a nice break once in a  while, too. 

Have you added mulch to your garden? If you haven’t, I guarantee that this step will change your frugal gardening life! It’s well worth the initial effort. Don’t forget to check the weather for this week and plan your watering schedule accordingly. 

Avoiding waste at all costs is extremely important to me as a frugal gardener. Throwing away parts of a plant that I might be able to use is akin to throwing money in the trash!

Now is the time of year where I’m in full harvest mode. I also receive a weekly CSA farm basket to satisfy my veggie cravings. I rarely meal plan at this time of year because I need to be able to get creative and think on my toes as I pick what’s ripe in my garden and dig into my organic farm basket. Most recipes simply don’t use all the parts of a plant, so I need to think outside the box when it’s time to cook dinner.

Here are 3 plants that you can eat from top to bottom:

Beets

Sure, you know that you can eat the root portion of this sweet and earthy vegetable, but did you know that the tops are edible, too? Don’t toss them out! After harvesting, separate the tops from the roots and wash both parts of the plant thoroughly to remove dirt. Beet greens are very similar to swiss chard and taste great sauteed.

Carrots

They’re not particularly flavorful, but the tops of your carrot plants are definitely edible. Use them to make carrot pesto or as a garnish for heavy dishes. In the late fall, you can harvest the tops of mature carrots before the roots, since the tops are a lot less cold hardy.

Kohlrabi

An alien-looking root vegetable that has a mild turnip-like flavor. I much prefer kohlrabi to turnips, actually! The bulb can be shredded and used raw in a salad or cubed and roasted with other root veggies. The leaves are fair game, too. Cook them together or separately, or use them like you would cabbage leaves and stuff them with whatever you’re in the mood for.

Plants you can’t eat from top to bottom:

Oh how I wish I could eat every plant from root to stem, but not all plants are wholly edible. Only eat the fruit of tomato plants, the rest might make you sick. Don’t bother eating squash foliage, it’s not at all tasty. Avoid eating rhubarb leaves, they’re poisonous!

Do you have a favorite unconventional plant part that you love to cook with? Let me know by leaving a comment!

I love this time of year! It’s truly when the garden looks best. Everything is bright green, there are pops of color here and there, and I’m harvesting things consistently. It feels like the garden is alive. Harvesting kale and other greens is a breeze. I can easily spot when a tomato is ripe for the picking, and I pluck peppers off their stems whenever I feel they’re big enough for eating.

Root vegetables like garlic and potatoes, however, are a little more challenging to figure out. While they mature underground, we’re left to guess what’s going on. It drives me crazy. I’m always tempted to dig a little to see whether my root veggies are ready to dig up, but I know from experience that my excitement often leads to disappointment. Patience is required, and digging in the dirt too soon can harm the productivity of your plant. So how do you know when it’s time to start pulling up those tubers?

When is garlic ready to harvest?

Planted in the fall, garlic requires a long period in the ground before it’s ready to pluck from the ground. The first sign that garlic is growing going well and that your plant is nearing fruition is the appearance of garlic scapes. The curly stems shoot out from the center of the plants and signal that the garlic plant is ready to bloom and send out seed from its flower stalk. My garlic scapes have already started to appear, and they’ll be cut off soon and enjoyed in salads and stir-fries. The scapes have a delicate garlic taste that’s really out of this world.

The scapes appearing doesn’t mean it’s time to harvest yet, though. Cut the stems to ensure that energy is routed to the garlic bulb. A few weeks later, your garlic will likely be ready. The surefire sign that it’s time to dig up bulbs is when the tops yellow and fall over.

When are potatoes ready to harvest?

The same goes for potatoes. Not too long after your plants begin to bloom, you’ll notice the tops start to wilt, yellow, and fall over. It’s a sign that it may be time to dig up the taters underground. Not sure whether it’s okay to go ahead? Gently dig into the earth to check for appropriately sized tubers.

A tip: it’s possible to dig up potatoes early. These small tender tubers are called ‘new potatoes.’ They’re not quite mature enough for storage since the skin is typically quite thin and easily pierced, but they’re excellent for cooking straight away once harvested.

I hope this helps ease your root vegetable anxiety. I know it can be hard to trust the process going on underground, but it’s well worth a bit of patience.

Happy Canada Day to all my fellow Canadian gardeners! 

Summer has arrived at our doorstep. The temperatures are heating up, the sun is out in full force, and the garden is filling out nicely. I’m continually finding things to do, even though the main planting period has passed. Now, it’s all about maintenance and succession sowing. I check on the garden each day to ensure everything is going smoothly. 

Recently, I noticed the plants in one of my raised beds weren’t looking too great. The leaves were yellowing, and the entire box full of veggies looked stunted. What was going on? 

Don’t Make Assumptions

When I noticed the yellowing and weak growth in my plants, I examined everything a lot more closely. I could have assumed there was a deficiency or disease, but making assumptions is the last thing you want to do when diagnosing a garden problem. 

I checked the undersides of the plant leaves. The bed contains mainly brassicas (e.g., kale, Brussel sprouts, cabbage) so I checked whether there was any pest damage. The bed was covered by netting, but you never know! A pest might be able to find its way in without your knowledge. Next, I checked the moisture level of the bed compared to the others. Each bed had similar moisture levels, so that wasn’t the problem. 

It had nothing to do with sun exposure since all the beds get the same amount of sunshine. Did I accidentally plant poor companions next to one another? Nope.

The yellowing and slow growth seemed to affect all the plants in the bed, so I figured disease was not the issue. It must be the soil!

Nutrient Deficiency

Uh oh! It looks like I was dealing with some type of soil deficiency. The three main macronutrients required for plant growth are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium (NPK). Without a soil test, there’s no way to know which one might be lacking. At least, not for sure. 

Attempting to fix the deficiency without accurately diagnosing it can lead to a lot of problems and can even potentially contaminate your soil and cause environmentally damaging runoff. And if there’s no actual deficiency, fertilizing for no reason is a complete waste of money. So before you run off to the store to buy fertilizer, compost, or some other amendment identify the problem first. 

Soil Testing

I know that many U.S. states offer soil testing services, but where I’m located, there’s nowhere for me to send a sample. So I decided to purchase a soil testing kit from Amazon. It was relatively inexpensive and allowed for multiple rounds of testing. 

First, I tested the pH of the soil in two boxes. The wrong pH can prevent plants from absorbing certain nutrients. The result? The pH in my boxes is around 6.5, which is just fine and preferred by most vegetable plants.

Next up, I tested for NPK in my problem box. The results surprised me. It turns out the soil is that box was deficient in Nitrogen. Now, I’ve started to try to fix the issue using organic fertilizers that are high in nitrogen. Had I misdiagnosed the problem and added Phosphorus and Potassium without first testing the soil, I might have contaminated my soil and caused further issues down the line.

The moral of the story? Test your soil!!!

To be fair, it would have been smarter to test the soil at the start of the season and address any imbalances then. I intend to make early springtime soil testing a habit!

Over the years as I’ve worked to maintain and cultivate my garden frugally, I’ve realized that bigger isn’t necessarily better. When I used to garden in a small partially shaded area, I often dreamed of a larger plot of land where I could expand my efforts. I no longer wanted to be stuck with a limited planting area. I felt suffocated and found it challenging to grow everything I wanted to. 

Years later, I’m lucky to have more space, but I still find myself wanting more. I dream of building additional raised beds and filling out every corner of my yard. I always feel stifled at the start of a season. I often think I’ll run out of room and in the planning phase. So I conjure up plans to add container plants here and there, think about where I might want to build the next raised bed, and try to squeeze in every single plant on my wish list. At the start of the season, when there’s still snow on the ground, the options seem endless, and it’s all very exciting.

A Case for Small Gardens 

I often hear from friends who have limited space for growing veggies that they’re unsure of how to start and think that their tiny balcony or minuscule grassy area isn’t right for a garden.

I’m quick to correct them. You can grow a garden nearly anywhere. And there’s something to be said about keeping things small. For beginners, a small garden is simply easier to manage. You don’t need to weed as often, you can easily notice problems when they arise, and you won’t find yourself overwhelmed with produce to harvest. 

As a veteran gardener, I appreciate the appeal of a small garden more than ever. As I add on fabric pots, plastic containers, and raised beds around my yard, I realize that the effort involved grows along with my garden. I love being able to grow more and harvest more. But along with that benefit comes more work and stress. 

Master the Compact First

Before I add on, my strategy is always to master the current space I have. Last year, I thought about adding two additional beds to my setup, but I decided that it made more sense to continue growing in my current raised beds until I find I’m desperate for more room. 

The Challenges of a Large Garden

What’s the problem with a large garden? Nothing! But it does come with challenges. While compact gardens leave you with limited planting options, a large garden poses the following difficulties:

• It’s expensive: filling up beds with good quality soil mix, building structures, and fertilizing, all cost more because there’s a larger area to deal with.
• It’s harder to keep up with the harvest: more plants means there’s more to harvest, and while that sounds amazing, sometimes it’s tough to keep up with everything. It requires a keen eye and the development of habits to avoid spoilage and early bolting.
• So much weeding and maintenance: You’ll need to weed, water, and deal with pests on a larger scale, which takes more time out of your daily schedule. 

Does this mean you shouldn’t expand your garden? Not at all! A vast growing space is a beautiful thing. What I’m saying is that there’s nothing wrong with keeping things small. If you’re a frugal gardener who doesn’t have the budget to expand, that’s fine. If you’re just starting out, keeping your growing space small is a great way to avoid feeling overwhelmed. I think weighing the pros and cons of garden sizes is well worth it. 

I try to walk through my garden on a daily basis. Whether it’s bright and early on a weekday morning when the rabbits are out, and there’s still dew sitting on leaves, or it’s evening, and the sun is setting. Even when my schedule is out of control, I make it a priority to visit the garden, because it’s the first step in nurturing the vibrant, growing space.

Location

Before I go into why it’s so essential to casually stroll by your plants every day, I want to talk a bit about garden location. It’s easy for me to walk through my garden after a hard morning run or in the evening as the world begins to get sleepy because my garden is close to my home. I simply walk outside to my deck to check on my container plants and trot down a few steps to check on the rest of my plants. I can even spy my raised beds from my kitchen window, so squirrels and other hungry mammals can’t munch on my produce in private. 

Having your garden in a convenient location is a must. If you tuck it away in a far away corner of your yard, you won’t find yourself checking on your vegetables often. A hidden garden that’s out of reach will be one where plants aren’t tended to as often and where fresh, ready-to-pick produce sits unnoticed. 

When starting a garden, pick an easy-to-reach area that you will enjoy visiting. If you’re new, I recommend starting with containers or a raised bed close to your home. The closer, the better. 

The Importance of Garden Walkthroughs

Even if you’re just checking on a few container plants, it’s vital to look at your garden regularly. I enjoy daily checks, but a stroll by your plants every few days is usually just as effective. Why bother observing your plants so frequently?

It’s good for you. Going out to the garden is one of the least hectic moments of my day. I breathe in the fresh air, feel the sunshine (or rain!) on my skin, and I swear I feel my heartbeat slow and my blood pressure decrease. 

Early detection. Frequently passing by your plants allows you to spot pest damage early, so you can swiftly address the problem and avoid disaster. If you’re checking on your plants regularly, you’ll also be able to spot changes in foliage that may signal disease or nutrient deficiencies. 

Nothing goes to waste. As you walk through your garden each day, you’ll always be aware of what’s ready to harvest or what will be ready soon. Having this knowledge ensures that you’ll pick things quickly and never waste anything that you’ve grown. 

Stop weeds in their tracks. Like pests, weeds can quickly get out of hand if you don’t pull them as soon as you notice them. Leave your garden alone for a week, and pulling weeds becomes a chore. Daily checks allow you to casually snatch errant plants out of the ground without much effort. 

Watering. Your plants need water to thrive, and while you can often rely on Mother Nature to quench their thirst, you should be prepared to water your plants regularly. If your garden walkthroughs are a routine, incorporate regular waterings, too. Just be sure to check the forecast to avoid overwatering! 

I visit my garden to care for my plants but also to care for myself. My mornings among the leaves, blossoms, and chirping birds always seems to improve my mood ten-fold. The routine calms me, quiets my worries and anxieties about the upcoming day, and even if it lasts a short while, fills me with peace. 

Seed starting this year was hit or miss. A few things grew beautifully, but I had to deal with a lot of problems. Seeds were not sprouting, mold was forming on the soil, and I had to deal with damping off. I worked hard to sanitize my seed starting equipment and create a hospital environment for my seedlings, but sometimes things just don’t work out. I ended up purchasing some starts to replace lost seedlings, which always makes me feel terribly guilty. Like I’m skipping a step.

Last year, I didn’t even bother with seed starting. My aunt passed away in the spring, and I was in no shape or mood to get excited about gardening. I kept my seed starting stuff tucked away in storage and didn’t think about my garden for a while. Typically, in March I’m already starting to dream about all the vegetable varieties I’m going to plant, and I’m closely watching the weather forecast. When things seem to have turned upside down, though, it’s hard to fantasize about growing plants. 

Instead, in the early portion of the summer, my husband tagged along with me to our local nursery to help me pick out a few garden plants in an effort to brighten my spirits. I didn’t feel bad then that I had skipped my usual seed starting.

This year though, with all the setbacks I experienced as things failed to thrive on my grow shelves, visiting the nursery to buy transplants produced a pang of guilt. It’s hard not to feel like a failure. 

But as I loaded my cart up with heat-loving eggplants and tomatoes, I realized it was perfectly fine to start a garden with transplants. There are surely pros and cons, but it doesn’t many you or I any less of a gardener. Many squares in my raised beds are filling out with seeds I sowed at the start of the season. A few surviving seedlings managed to settle in quite nicely in their garden squares and containers, too. 

So let’s examine the pros and cons of each garden-starting method, shall we?

Benefits and downsides of seed starting 

Seed starting is a customizable process. Make it all complicated or simple as you want. An involved setup with grow lights, shelves, and sturdy equipment naturally incurs higher costs than a basic windowsill setup, but it’s easy to adjust according to a set budget. Seed starting is also relatively easy, fun, and allows growers to try a myriad of vegetable varieties not typically available for purchase as transplants in the spring. Depending on your setup, starting seeds indoors is often cheaper overall than buying starts. 

Seed starting, though, does require patience and effort since some seeds need to be started quite early and babysat up until their transplant date. When starting seedlings, you can share extras or even sell them and having a seed starting setup makes succession growing possible. Seed starting does require some space, though. You’ll also need to harden off seedlings in the spring when it’s time to transplant them outdoors. A plus with growing your own starts, however, is that you know exactly how they’ve been grown.

Benefits and downsides of buying transplants 

The biggest downside is that transplants can be expensive. Look for sales at your local nursery or attend plant swaps and sales put on by local horticultural societies to save money. When buying starts, you don’t know how they’ve been grown. Are they organic? Have they been sprayed with pesticides? You’ll sometimes find this information readily available, but not always. When buying transplants, you also have a limited amount of choice available to you. With seeds, you can choose from an array of varieties. The benefit of selecting transplants from reputable growers? The plants grown are often explicitly chosen because they grow well within your region. 

If you have limited room and little time to bother with seed starting, transplants are an excellent option. 

Why buy transplants?

• Easier than seed starting
• Perfect for starting a new garden (especially in cases where you’re starting late in the season)
• Great for beginners
• No indoor space required
• Some plants are incredibly tough to start from seed (e.g., asparagus)

When buying seedlings, you do lose the experience of growing plants from seed. There’s nothing like it, but if circumstances require you to skip seed starting, there’s genuinely nothing wrong with heading to your local nursery for a green-themed shopping trip. 

Apologies for the delay in posting this week. I managed to get mild food poisoning after a lovely brunch, and my stomach was in knots for nearly two days. The gardening season is definitely on its way, though! I love seeing photos of gardens slowly turning green and spotting hidden veggie beds in front or backyards as I walk my dogs or head out on a run. I particularly adore seeing new gardeners get excited about their first sprouts. It’s an exciting time! Even as someone who has gardened for a while now, I never tire of seeing seedlings pop out of the earth or watching plants grow over the summer months. If I’m swamped or the weather isn’t great, and I get stuck inside for a few days, it’s so rewarding to re-enter the garden and be treated to a beautiful blooming oasis. 

Harvest is still a little ways off for me as of yet — I expect I’ll be picking radishes, lettuce, and Asian greens once June rolls around — but I’m already fantasizing about what I’m going to cook and prepare with the fresh produce from my garden. I’ve planted more kale than usual this year and plenty of other hardy greens. Once grown, they fill out the space quite nicely, but they’re also my favorite veggies to eat. It’s why I’ve dedicated two full beds to growing brassicas (a vegetable family that includes cabbage, kale, radish, etc.). I just love eating those vegetables! 

I see a lot of gardening guides and books suggest which plants to grow. Tomatoes, peas, beans, radishes. They’re relatively easy to grow and high-reward. Who doesn’t love to pick a fresh tomato off the vine and slice it up for a tasty lunchtime sandwich? Cucumbers are often recommended as an easy first-time vegetable. 

You won’t find cucumbers in my garden, though. I’m not a huge fan, and I get enough of them in my local farm’s CSA basket. I don’t need a bundle more to snack on. I want to urge you not to bother planting vegetables and varieties you don’t love to eat. Don’t waste time, effort, and space on nurturing plants that will feel like a chore to harvest and cook with. 

Grow your favorite things. Yes, even if they’re challenging to grow! Even as a frugal gardener. If you have a whole lot of excess space and plenty of people to share with, go ahead, and allocate a bit of room for lesser preferred veg. But if you’re tight on space, don’t waste it on produce that doesn’t excite you. Frugal gardening is about saving money, yes, but it’s also about reducing waste. Wasting produce, after all, is wasting money! When I grow cucumbers, I tend to forget to harvest them, leaving them on the vine to rot, which then attracts pests. When I do harvest them, they often sit unused until they waste away. Why continue to worry and take on guilt when I could simply devote more space to favorites like kale and collards? 

What’s your favorite garden vegetable? Do you prefer to leave extra room for flowers and herbs instead? 

A friend recently asked me about the process of hardening off plants, so I decided to answer the question here. Hardening off is something I didn’t realize was necessary when I first began gardening. I didn’t have to deal with the consequences of skipping the step, though, because in my early gardening days I mostly direct sowed all my plants. Today, hardening off is an important part of my transplanting routine even if I hate it with a passion.

What is hardening off?

The process involves gradually exposing your indoor starts to the outside world. For weeks (and in some cases even months) your little seedlings have been coddled. You’ve provided them with the ideal conditions to grow and thrive. Thrusting them outdoors without preparing is the perfect way to ruin all your hard work. Indoor-grown plants have never experienced the power of the sun or the fluctuating climate since they’ve lived their lives on a windowsill or under grow lights. Via the process of hardening off, you allow your seedlings to get used to life outside.

How do I harden off my seedlings?

When it comes time to transplant certain plants outdoors, set aside a week or so to begin the hardening off process. Mark the start of the process on your calendar so you can keep track. I highly suggest investing in heavy-duty trays to make it easier to move your seedlings around. A plastic tray from the dollar store, a rolling cart, an easy-to-move table, are all suitable options. Here’s how the process should work:

• Start the process on a nice day. Don’t begin hardening off plants if it’s incredibly cold outside or if there’s a rainstorm brewing. If there’s no way to avoid weather extremes, keep an eye on your plants and offer up added protection (like fleece row covers if temps drastically plummet during your week of hardening off).
• Start slow. Bring your transplants outside and place them in a semi-shaded area for a few hours. Avoid direct sunlight right away to prevent leaf burn. Your indoor babies aren’t yet used to the strength of the sun’s rays.
• Each day, increase your plant’s time out in the sun. If it’s cloudy one day, don’t worry about it, though.
• Keep a close eye on delicate plants. Heat-loving plants like peppers and eggplants should be watched carefully for signs of stress. Don’t forget to continually check the forecast to prevent leaving your sensitive plants outside overnight.
• Don’t forget to water! Water your plants to prevent them from wilting, but don’t water as frequently as you might have when they were indoors.
• Start on a weekend. Even better, on a long weekend. The first few days your plants shouldn’t be exposed to direct sunlight or crazy weather. It’s best if you’re home to watch them and bring them in if need be.
• Transplant starts into the garden after about a week or so. Water and mulch to conserve moisture.
• Monitor your plants to watch for signs of stress and transplant shock. If your seedlings wilt and die, something has gone wrong in the process. You may have rushed things.

Pro tip for hardening off

Mistakes will happen. I’ve killed many plants during the hardening off process. If you’re new to this, harden off a few plants at a time, so you don’t accidentally wipe out your entire set of starts at once.

Be patient and communicate with other household members. Let your family, partner, or housemates know that you’re hardening off your plants. Explain how it works and how long it will take. Give everyone a heads up that the kitchen or entryway may be a bit cluttered for a week and that you may even need help bringing plants in and out each day.

Keep seed starting. Don’t stop starting seeds just because it’s time to harden off the majority of your seedlings. Succession sowing (and transplanting) allows you to always have new plants to fill empty spaces in the garden. One thing I’ve learned over the years is that immediately planting every square foot in my garden isn’t necessarily the best use of my time. Instead, I plant a few squares, wait a week, and plant (or transplant) more. That way, I don’t have 6 heads of lettuce or 5 squares of bok choi all maturing at once. A staggered harvest is much more manageable.

A confession

I don’t always stick to my schedule or tried and true methods. Sometimes, my impatience gets the best of me and sometimes I succeed at avoiding the whole rigamarole, but often it leaves me frustrated and disappointed that I’ve lost seedlings. I’ve learned from many mistakes, but my hatred for the hardening off process seems to override any sense and every lesson I’ve learned goes out the window when I’m eager to get the garden started.

Not everyone hardens off their plants the same way. Do you have a method that works for you? Do you hate the process as much as I do? Let me know by commenting on this post!

Excuse me while I go place my collards and kale on a tray to start the hardening off process. Wish me luck!